Great set of videos. Couple of things. The rubber rings for the sprocket go one each side of the spokes, one inside and one outside. So you only have to split one. This protects the spokes from undue wear and tear from the sprocket rubbing back and forth.
Hey, Great videos you’ve got here on your site. I saw this for the first time today and I’ve already got a little motor on order for my old mountain bike…
Thanks for the vid. I’m having a hell of a time with the clutch. I ran the cable through the adjuster, with the big spring protecting the wire and the small spring between the adjuster and the clutch arm. When I then pull on the clutch lever, the clutch doesn’t seem to engage (preventing the sprocket inside from turning when riding the bike normally). I can push the clutch arm to engage it, but it doesn’t “lock” into place until it actually hits the adjuster. What am I missing? Any help would be appreciated.
I’m not sure. I ‘ve seen some interesting modifications for the clutch by adding a small pulley which increase leverage.
The clutch should engage within the amount of throw allowed by your clutch lever. Sorry, I’m not much help.
Try the motorized bicycle forums. Good Luck.
Sorry about that Leandro… the videos are currently hosted through blip.tv which uses a flash video player which is not compatible with ipads or iphones. I am planning on redistributing my videos through youtube in the near future. Youtube, of course is compatible with apple products.
@norazza
I have a honda tiller which is the perfect engine for a friction drive bike. I really like how smooth honda engines are… so I will be doing that.
Yes… all the parts for a friction drive setup with my honda engine are different than with the chinese motor and a chain drive. I haven’t bought the friction drive setup, but it is much simpler mechanically. I expect the speed difference to be minor , but probably a little slower. The biggest drawback I’ve heard about with a friction drive setup is that it can wear your rear tire more quickly.
i have a kit on the way been looking on youtube about a boost bottle Induction kit .
have you try it. look like you can make it your self . i,t woude be cool if you made one.
Hello, thanks for awesome videos..
I really need help though, can you please tell me where the glutch connects too? If it connects to the level on the left side of the motor, is the lever suppose to be spring loaded? Like, when you pull it back, and then let go, it will spring back into its original place?
People say the throttle connects to the carbureter, how? When I look inside the carbureter ( the part with the spring in it ), there is nothing that hooks up with the end of the throttle..
And last question, where does the filter for the fuel tank go? First we got the fuel tank, which connects to the surgical tubing, which connects to the filter. Where does the filter connect to??
hello, i have a 66cc engine from gasbike.net and 1 of the teeth on the small sprocket on the motor broke so i have a new 1 coming. im not sure how to take the old 1 off do you know? if so please let me know i would hate to get over charged by a mechanic.
i got my engine from gasbike.net also ive been looking at bikeberry.com for another 1 to do myself. i have the grubee skyhawk 66cc/80cc engine from gasbike.net and i do a good 30-35mph @matt
Once you got the clutch disengaged by pulling in the clutch lever and locking it in with the pin shake your bike forwards and backwards a bit, lift the back of the bike and let it hit the ground a few times and keep doing this tell it disengages. (the problem is the clutch is stuck from sitting at the factory.)
Steven Scudder :
Thanks for the vid. I’m having a hell of a time with the clutch. I ran the cable through the adjuster, with the big spring protecting the wire and the small spring between the adjuster and the clutch arm. When I then pull on the clutch lever, the clutch doesn’t seem to engage (preventing the sprocket inside from turning when riding the bike normally). I can push the clutch arm to engage it, but it doesn’t “lock” into place until it actually hits the adjuster. What am I missing? Any help would be appreciated.
Once you got the clutch disengaged by pulling in the clutch lever and locking it in with the pin shake your bike forwards and backwards a bit, lift the back of the bike and let it hit the ground a few times and keep doing this tell it disengages. (the problem is the clutch is stuck from sitting at the factory.)
Without doubt the most worthless video I’ve seen in some time,I’m not impressed with the way the sprocket set completely level on the spokes of the wheel or the workbench with the vise too small for assembling the bike kit.The gasket accepting the intake isn’t shown.You not seriously thinking your entitled to argue with me are you ?
@ James… I was documenting and showing the steps I went through to build my motorized bike. There are tons of better builders out there, but few take to time to show the details, which is what I was attempting to do.
Great set of videos. Couple of things. The rubber rings for the sprocket go one each side of the spokes, one inside and one outside. So you only have to split one. This protects the spokes from undue wear and tear from the sprocket rubbing back and forth.
Only other thing… WEAR A HELMET!
Thanks again for the great videos!!
Hey, Great videos you’ve got here on your site. I saw this for the first time today and I’ve already got a little motor on order for my old mountain bike…
This is just hilarious!
Great video of your project, this is something I would like to do but only if it is electric.
May I ask what is the name of the background music in this video? I really like it and I don’t mind making my own purchase of the music.
Thanks, LE
I think I got the music from this website http://www.musicalley.com/
Thanks for the vid. I’m having a hell of a time with the clutch. I ran the cable through the adjuster, with the big spring protecting the wire and the small spring between the adjuster and the clutch arm. When I then pull on the clutch lever, the clutch doesn’t seem to engage (preventing the sprocket inside from turning when riding the bike normally). I can push the clutch arm to engage it, but it doesn’t “lock” into place until it actually hits the adjuster. What am I missing? Any help would be appreciated.
I’m not sure. I ‘ve seen some interesting modifications for the clutch by adding a small pulley which increase leverage.
The clutch should engage within the amount of throw allowed by your clutch lever. Sorry, I’m not much help.
Try the motorized bicycle forums. Good Luck.
hey you forgot to show how to install the chain. its the hardest part.
hai sir i want to do project on bycycle with solar power, will it possible pls help sir , give me support sir
Problem no 1: I can’t watch this video on the iPad.
@Leandro
Sorry about that Leandro… the videos are currently hosted through blip.tv which uses a flash video player which is not compatible with ipads or iphones. I am planning on redistributing my videos through youtube in the near future. Youtube, of course is compatible with apple products.
under the other video you said you no longer have this motor instaled in the bike,
what was the problem with it??
and do you still have the motor?
@norazza
I have a honda tiller which is the perfect engine for a friction drive bike. I really like how smooth honda engines are… so I will be doing that.
yo how fast can u go on it and whats the motor kit called
It’s not very fast. It’s one of the cheap no-name engines on ebay. I plan on replacing it with honda engine friction drive eventually.
Hey did you have to replace all the parts to make it compatible with the honda engine? also how fast does the cheap engine vs the honda engine?
Yes… all the parts for a friction drive setup with my honda engine are different than with the chinese motor and a chain drive. I haven’t bought the friction drive setup, but it is much simpler mechanically. I expect the speed difference to be minor , but probably a little slower. The biggest drawback I’ve heard about with a friction drive setup is that it can wear your rear tire more quickly.
Do you have to make all of those brackets from scratch or did it come with all of the hard ware. send me a message i just ordered one of those kits.
It comes with brackets to fit a standard bike.
My bike had larger aluminum tubes, so I had to make new brackets.
Good Luck!
oh ok thanks for the vids
do you have to use 2 stroke oil in the gas or just regular gas?
@kevin buckman
Yes… this engine is a 2 stroke engine.
4 stroke engines can use regular un-mixed fuel.
i have a kit on the way been looking on youtube about a boost bottle Induction kit .
have you try it. look like you can make it your self . i,t woude be cool if you made one.
Hello, thanks for awesome videos..
I really need help though, can you please tell me where the glutch connects too? If it connects to the level on the left side of the motor, is the lever suppose to be spring loaded? Like, when you pull it back, and then let go, it will spring back into its original place?
People say the throttle connects to the carbureter, how? When I look inside the carbureter ( the part with the spring in it ), there is nothing that hooks up with the end of the throttle..
And last question, where does the filter for the fuel tank go? First we got the fuel tank, which connects to the surgical tubing, which connects to the filter. Where does the filter connect to??
Please help.
Many Thanks..
hello, i have a 66cc engine from gasbike.net and 1 of the teeth on the small sprocket on the motor broke so i have a new 1 coming. im not sure how to take the old 1 off do you know? if so please let me know i would hate to get over charged by a mechanic.
whats the website were u get that motor kit from and how fast does the bike go? reply back to my email please
cheers
i got my engine from gasbike.net also ive been looking at bikeberry.com for another 1 to do myself. i have the grubee skyhawk 66cc/80cc engine from gasbike.net and i do a good 30-35mph @matt
Once you got the clutch disengaged by pulling in the clutch lever and locking it in with the pin shake your bike forwards and backwards a bit, lift the back of the bike and let it hit the ground a few times and keep doing this tell it disengages. (the problem is the clutch is stuck from sitting at the factory.)
Once you got the clutch disengaged by pulling in the clutch lever and locking it in with the pin shake your bike forwards and backwards a bit, lift the back of the bike and let it hit the ground a few times and keep doing this tell it disengages. (the problem is the clutch is stuck from sitting at the factory.)
my motor seems to sit pretty low, any suggestions?
Just got around to watching this one. Love it. Slick way of making brackets. Going to try that next time myself.
Help! My son has the chinese kit. Hasn’t been able to get it to work.
Without doubt the most worthless video I’ve seen in some time,I’m not impressed with the way the sprocket set completely level on the spokes of the wheel or the workbench with the vise too small for assembling the bike kit.The gasket accepting the intake isn’t shown.You not seriously thinking your entitled to argue with me are you ?
I’d say I was too polite in my remarks the video and it’s content without mentioning further is actually insulting..
@ James… I was documenting and showing the steps I went through to build my motorized bike. There are tons of better builders out there, but few take to time to show the details, which is what I was attempting to do.
THE CLUTCH PIN WITH THE BALL BEARING BEHIND IT. I CAN NOT SEAT THE CLUTCH ARM OR THE CLUTCH COVER BECAUSE THE PIN IS OUT TO FAR.
HOW DO I FIX THIS?